Open center
Choose three or four strong scaffold branches spaced around the trunk and keep the center open. This creates a shorter tree that is easier to harvest and prune from the ground while increasing light penetration and air circulation.
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Grower's guide
Guide
Choose a topic below for practical tree care steps you can use before, during, and after your nursery visit.
Grower's guide
Pruning Trees
Pruning is easier when every cut has a purpose. Begin by studying how your tree naturally grows, decide on the structure you want, and remove wood gradually.
Adapted and summarized from Trees of Antiquity's pruning guide.
01
Why prune?
Thoughtful pruning builds a stronger framework, improves sunlight and airflow through the canopy, supports fruit production, and removes damaged wood before decay spreads. Sunlight is especially important because shaded fruiting wood becomes less productive.
Start slowly. Look at the tree's mature shape and natural growth habit before choosing a branch to remove. A useful rule is simple: know what a cut is meant to accomplish before making it.
02
Choose a training system
Central leader
Keep one upright branch as the dominant leader, with scaffold branches arranged below and around it. This system produces a taller tree with more canopy, potential shade, and room for a larger crop.
03
Time the work and prepare your tools
Major structural pruning is generally done while the tree is dormant and after the harshest winter weather has passed. Avoid pruning on wet days, when water can help spread fungal spores. Use sharp, well-maintained tools so cuts are clean instead of torn or jagged.
04
Remove branches in a clear order
- Begin with broken, dead, or diseased wood.
- Remove branches growing straight down, straight up, across the canopy, or directly into another branch.
- Cut away suckers emerging near the base of the trunk.
- Remove smaller unwanted growth before deciding which large limbs should remain.
- Select three or four well-spaced scaffold branches to establish the permanent framework.
The first several years are primarily about training: creating a durable structure that the mature tree can carry safely.
05
Understand the two basic cuts
Thinning cut
Remove a branch where it joins a larger limb or the trunk, cutting just outside the branch collar. Keep the wound as small as practical and do not leave a long stub. Tree wound paint is generally unnecessary.
Heading cut
Shorten a branch just above an outward-facing bud to direct future growth. Leave only a small amount of wood above the bud; an oversized stub can die back and become an entry point for disease.
06
Match pruning intensity to the crop
Pears, sweet and sour cherries, and European plums often fruit on longer-lived spurs, so preserve productive spur wood and prune more lightly. Apples can generally tolerate somewhat more pruning.
Peaches, nectarines, apricots, figs, and Japanese plums depend more heavily on younger growth and may benefit from stronger annual pruning. Dormant pruning can stimulate a weak tree, while selective summer pruning can help restrain a tree that is growing too vigorously.
07
Training a young apple tree
For a modified central-leader form, retain one strong upright leader and remove competing shoots. Thin crowded shoots along the leader, keeping the strongest and best-spaced growth. Choose two or three upper shoots as future scaffold branches and shorten them to encourage balanced branching.
Repeat the evaluation each year: remove basal shoots, preserve good spacing, and shorten scaffolds as needed. The goal is a sturdy central structure with enough openness for light to reach future fruiting wood.
08
Protect the tree and its pollinators
Avoid unnecessary broad pesticide use that can harm bees and other beneficial insects. If dormant oil is appropriate for the pest and tree, follow the product label exactly and avoid applying it during unsuitable temperatures or weather.
This guide is a general starting point. Before making major cuts, confirm recommendations for your tree species, age, health, rootstock, and local conditions.
Grower's guide
Transplant Trees
Successful transplanting starts before the tree leaves its pot. Prepare the site, protect the root ball, and water deeply so new roots can move into the surrounding soil.
01
Pick the right timing
Transplant when weather is mild and the tree is under the least stress. For many Bay Area fruit trees, fall through early spring is easiest because cooler temperatures reduce water demand while roots continue to establish.
Avoid transplanting during heat waves, dry wind, saturated soil, or immediately before a freeze. Container trees can be planted most of the year if irrigation and shade protection are managed carefully.
02
Prepare the planting hole
Dig a hole two to three times wider than the root ball and only as deep as the root ball itself. The root flare should sit at or slightly above the surrounding grade after watering settles the soil.
Loosen the sides of the hole so roots can move outward. Backfill mostly with native soil rather than creating a rich pocket that discourages roots from spreading into the yard.
03
Handle the root ball gently
Water the tree before planting so the root ball holds together. Slide the container away instead of pulling the tree by the trunk. If roots circle tightly, tease them outward or make a few shallow vertical cuts along the root mass.
04
Set, backfill, and water in
- Set the tree straight with the root flare visible.
- Backfill halfway, gently firm the soil, then water to settle air pockets.
- Finish backfilling and water again until the entire root zone is moist.
- Build a shallow watering basin outside the root ball edge.
Do not bury the trunk or pile soil against the bark. Deep planting is one of the most common causes of slow decline after transplanting.
05
Mulch and stake only when needed
Apply two to four inches of mulch over the root zone, keeping it several inches away from the trunk. Mulch cools the soil, reduces weeds, and helps moisture stay consistent.
Stake only if the tree cannot stand upright or if the site is windy. Use flexible ties and remove stakes once the tree is stable, usually within the first year.
06
Water for establishment
New trees need deep, regular watering while roots expand. Check moisture a few inches below the surface instead of relying on the top layer alone. The root ball can dry out faster than the surrounding soil during the first season.
Water deeply, then let the soil breathe before watering again. Adjust frequency for heat, wind, soil type, container size, and rainfall.
07
Reduce transplant shock
Keep fertilizer light at planting time. Focus first on moisture, mulch, and stable soil contact. Remove broken branches, but avoid heavy pruning immediately after transplanting unless the tree needs structural correction.
Watch for wilting, leaf scorch, loose staking ties, and soil pulling away from the root ball. Early adjustments are easier than rescuing a stressed tree later.
About Us
Where Innovation Meets Nature
Welcome to Ai and Trees. I'm Michael, and for me, this nursery is the intersection of three lifelong passions: a deep love for fruit trees, a dedication to our local community, and a fascination with the potential of modern technology.
Our Philosophy: Education Over Transaction
In a world where many garden centers prioritize high-volume turnover and rapid transactions, I have chosen a different path. I believe that every customer is unique, and every tree deserves a home where it can thrive.
I don't just sell plants; I cultivate relationships. I believe the key to a productive garden isn't just buying the right tree—it's knowing how to care for it. That is why I don't offer a "grab-and-go" experience. When you visit us, you are a partner in the growing process.
Tailored Consultations
I set aside at least 30 minutes for every client. We sit down, discuss your vision, and analyze your space to ensure we select the absolute best specimens for your specific needs.
The Empowerment Model
I invest 30 minutes to an hour of my time teaching you the nuances of care—pruning, soil health, and long-term maintenance. My goal is to ensure your trees live, grow, and flourish for years to come. I want your trees to succeed so that you'll return to share your progress and continue to grow your collection with me.
A Tech-Forward Experience
My commitment to your success extends to how we manage our nursery. I am deeply fascinated by software and AI technology, and I have utilized these tools to build this platform from the ground up.
By integrating the latest tech-savvy solutions, I provide a seamless, transparent experience for you. From real-time inventory management to efficient digital booking, I use technology to remove the friction of the buying process so that we can spend our time together focused on the only thing that matters: your trees.
Unmatched Variety in the Bay Area
Beyond the personal service, we pride ourselves on offering one of the most diverse selections of fruit tree varieties in the Bay Area. Whether you are looking for rare citrus, specialized avocado cultivars, or unique stone fruits, I focus on sourcing and growing high-quality stock that is perfectly suited for our local climate.
I am an enthusiast first, and my greatest joy is meeting fellow gardeners, sharing knowledge, and helping you turn your backyard into a productive oasis.
Visit the Nursery
If you are ready to find your next great tree, I invite you to book a consultation. Let's look at the inventory, talk about your garden goals, and make sure you walk away with the knowledge and the plants to succeed.
Appointments
Book a 30-minute appointment.
Not sure what to plant? Let's spend 30 minutes mapping out your garden's success.
Choose a 30-minute available time for nursery questions, inventory planning, or order support. Phone number is required when booking.
Ai and Trees
19347 Parsons Ave.
Castro Valley, CA 94546
(510) 556-4535
Monday-Friday: 8:30 AM-12:30 PM, 2:00 PM-8:00 PM
Saturday: 8:30 AM-1:00 PM
Sunday: 2:00 PM-8:00 PM
Required booking details: name, email, and phone number
Calendly booking link needed
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Frequently asked questions
Planning your nursery visit
Quick answers about appointments, inventory, purchasing, and tree care support.
Do I need an appointment to visit the nursery?
Yes. Please book a 30-minute appointment so we can give you focused help choosing the right trees and supplies for your space.
How do I know what is currently available?
Our online catalog shows the current nursery inventory. Search by category, species, variety, PID, PN, or item code, and contact us to confirm availability before your visit.
Can you help me choose the right fruit tree?
Yes. During your consultation, we can discuss your location, available space, sun exposure, goals, and local growing conditions to narrow down suitable options.
How do I purchase items from the catalog?
Add the items you are interested in to your cart and send a purchase inquiry. We will confirm availability, pricing, and the next steps with you.
Do you provide delivery or planting services?
Service options depend on the order and location. Include your address and needs in your inquiry so we can discuss what may be available.
What should I bring to my consultation?
Bring measurements and photos of your planting area, along with notes about sunlight, irrigation, and the fruit or garden results you want.
Can you help with care after I buy a tree?
Yes. Education is part of our approach, including practical guidance on planting, watering, pruning, soil health, and long-term maintenance.
Why should I create an account?
An account saves your contact information for faster inquiries and lets you provide an optional birthday so we can send you special birthday offers.
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Book an AppointmentReady to plan your garden?